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The climb starts from White River Campground at the base of Mt. Rainier. |
The classic question: why climb a mountain? For Assistant Research Scientist Stani Bohac, the answer is equally classic: “I love challenges,” he said. That’s why he and a team of eight other climbers, including Mechanical Engineering PhD students Jonathan Hagena and Alex Knafl, made an ascent of Mt. Rainier in Washington State near Ashford, last July.
Preparing for the climb was arduous, even for Bohac, who has participated in triathlons, but who had never made an ascent like this. “I've done some extended backpacking trips,” he said, “but I have never done any mountaineering climbs – climbs where there is no trail and that require technical gear like crampons, ropes, ice axes, and similar equipment.”
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Descending a loose, rotten (and frightening) rock wall. |
Because Bohac runs, bikes and swims to stay in shape and hikes and kayaks for fun, the physical aspects of getting ready for the climb were not especially daunting. Still, his lack of experience in climbing made other preparations necessary.
“I spent about six months reading books, buying equipment, learning to tie climbing knots, and trying to find out as much as I could about the technical aspects of the sport,” he said.
The team—Bohac, Hagena, Knafl, who are working together conducting research on engines in the Lay Automotive Laboratory in ME Department Chair Dennis Assanis’ group, and friend Brian Buda on one rope and friends Pete Elkowitz, Jim Janowicz, Neal Johnson and Arne Blohm on the second rope—intensified its preparations as the time for the climb approached.
Overall, team members spent 12 days in Washington State, including a three-day climbing class on nearby Mt. Baker. They allotted four days for the climb of Mt. Rainier, and added three days for travel and two extra in case of bad weather. “We ended up using these to hike in Olympic National Park,” said Bohac.
Ultimately, the team took 2 1/2 days to make the ascent and 1 1/2 days to descend, depending solely on themselves. “We wanted to have the responsibility and freedom of doing our own climb, so we did it unguided and on our own,” said Bohac. Speaking of being on one’s own, Hagena rode his motorcycle to Washington from Ann Arbor and back. The others flew to Seattle and rented a car for the 85-mile trip to Mt. Rainier.
Bohac readily admitted that the trip had an effect on him, both physically and emotionally. His pack, which he carried himself, weighed 68 pounds at the start of the climb. It held clothing, shelter, food, water, fuel, cooking stuff, climbing gear, general tools, a first aid bag and a camera.
“The climb was tough,” he said. “The sun burns your skin, the cold dry air dries your skin and dehydrates you, the thin air and heavy packs make it tough to move forward, and the constant activity wears you down. But, at the same time, challenges like this invigorate me and make me feel very much alive.
“Still, parts of the climb were terrifying. I was literally shaking in my boots. But I think this fear and a challenge like this also teaches you about yourself, teaches you to focus, and teaches you to put things into perspective.”
His background in mechanical engineering came in handy. It helped him figure out the answers to questions that ranged from the practical for the trip—What is the mechanical advantage of a pulley system? At what temperature will a pot of water boil at 10,000 feet?—to the more philosophical: How are the CO2 emissions from our cars affecting the glaciers and the environment?
He was hard pressed to pick a “favorite” moment from the experience. He enjoyed the preparation, the ascent and the decent, and, he said, “I enjoyed being back down off of the mountain where it’s green and we can be comfortable.”
For the Chicago native, who came to the University of Michigan for his PhD and who has been a research scientist in ME for the past three years, if there’s a challenge that requires physical exertion, he’s up for it.
“Both the Ironman Triathlon and the climb of Mt. Rainier were great challenges for me that I put huge amounts of preparation, energy and emotion into,” said Bohac.
That attitude readily explains his desire to go again and his recommendation that others find ways to get involved in outdoor activities.
“I recommend that everyone enjoy the outdoors and our parks. Camping and hiking are great ways to do this. Ultimately, I think both our minds and our bodies are very important and I enjoy mental and physical challenges. Both are closely connected to our souls.”